By: Paula Dupont
At some point the crowds of the main island of Venice might feel overwhelming, and you may need to escape. Or maybe you’re the sort who wants to see more than two streets beyond Piazza San Marco and you might just be looking for something a little different and off the beaten path. Perhaps you scheduled a luxuriously long stay on the island, allowing you to see what the tour boaters can’t. No matter the situation, if you have a free day – or even a half-day, consider heading out to Burano. We did – and just loved it.
Burano is a sleepy little island about 7 km north of Venice. As always, there’s a public vaporetto (little boat – in this case slightly larger little boat) that will take you there; both #12 and #14 make frequent trips. Just getting there feels adventurous. You’re leaving the “safe” canals of Venice and heading into open water – or so it seems. On a sunny day, the sea sparkles to life not unlike the rooftops and art around you. When you arrive in Burano the cascade of color continues. The island is sometimes referred to as the “Rainbow Island” because of its vibrant – and pastel – colored homes. Here the houses are stacked right up against each other in a crayon box of hues sure to delight. It’s as though Burano didn’t want to pale next to its sister island of Murano, well-known as the home of glass masters who create stunning, vivid home and jewelry objects of all color and shape! So each Burano home is more brilliant than the next. So much fun!
There’s not a lot to do on Burano – that’s the point -- but stroll, chase cats (every home seems to have one or two), and shop – for lace. Yes, this tiny island was once the lace-making capital of all of southern Europe. Supposedly, the lace-making tradition started when a young sailor brought back a gift of an exotic sea weed from his travels for his sweetheart. She wanted to “preserve” it forever, so sketched it and replicated the design using needle and thread. I don’t know about that one – seems a strange present, even for that time. Seaweed isn’t traditionally an endearing gift. I’m thinking maybe something was lost in translation and it was a piece of coral … In any event, lace-making took off.
Fishermen’s wives would sit outside their homes making lace while their husbands were at sea. The 16th century saw this industry peak as the Doge’s wife established a workshop of 130 women to create lace pieces. The Burano lace found its way throughout Italy, and into France via Catherine DeMedici. Louis the XIV even wore an elaborate Burano lace collar for his coronation. Like every other art form in Italy, there was infighting, corruption and heavily guarded secrecy – where would the fun be, otherwise -- behind the techniques used to make the famous “punta in aria” (stitch in the air) lace. Eventually a school was opened, and some of the secrets shared. It’s since closed and the building houses the Lace Museum today. The tradition of lace-making continues and you can purchase beautiful garments, linens, and other textiles featuring the delicate work. As always – be careful. The real stuff is expensive!! If the price is low, the lace is probably from China.
It’s a lovely way to pass an afternoon … strolling through cobbled streets surrounded by brightly colored houses and shops, and ducking into a few to see the beautiful creations. Some are as multi-hued as the homes. But we preferred the traditional whites and ecrus – and real study in contrast to the neighborhood around us.
Quiet, wonderful dining with the locals is a great way to end a relaxed day. Most of the restaurants offer some open-air seating and the food is stunningly simple, featuring the freshest in seafood offerings paired with pasta and risotto. Gelato on the way back to the vaporetto provides the sweetest ending to a perfect, off-beat day. Savor the moment as in a short spray of sea you’ll be back to the bustle of Venice. But the colors and tastes of Burano will linger long!
Come visit our online store at Direct From Venice, and enjoy our beautiful offerings and one of a kind pieces available in our Private Collection.
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