Pastel Adventure on the Lagoon – A Day-trip to Burano

By:  Paula Dupont

At some point the crowds of the main island of Venice might feel overwhelming, and you may need to escape.  Or maybe you’re the sort who wants to see more than two streets beyond Piazza San Marco and you might just be looking for something a little different and off the beaten path.  Perhaps you scheduled a luxuriously long stay on the island, allowing you to see what the tour boaters can’t.  No matter the situation, if you have a free day – or even a half-day, consider heading out to Burano.  We did – and just loved it.

Burano is a sleepy little island about 7 km north of Venice.  As always, there’s a public vaporetto (little boat – in this case slightly larger little boat) that will take you there; both #12 and #14 make frequent trips.  Just getting there feels adventurous.  You’re leaving the “safe” canals of Venice and heading into open water – or so it seems.  On a sunny day, the sea sparkles to life not unlike the rooftops and art around you.  When you arrive in Burano the cascade of color continues.  The island is sometimes referred to as the “Rainbow Island” because of its vibrant – and pastel – colored homes.  Here the houses are stacked right up against each other in a crayon box of hues sure to delight.  It’s as though Burano didn’t want to pale next to its sister island of Murano, well-known as the home of glass masters who create stunning,  vivid home and jewelry objects of all color and shape! So each Burano home is more brilliant than the next.  So much fun!

There’s not a lot to do on Burano – that’s the point -- but stroll, chase cats (every home seems to have one or two), and shop – for lace.  Yes, this tiny island was once the lace-making capital of all of southern Europe.  Supposedly, the lace-making tradition started when a young sailor brought back a gift of an exotic sea weed from his travels for his sweetheart.  She wanted to “preserve” it forever, so sketched it and replicated the design using needle and thread.  I don’t know about that one – seems a strange present, even for that time.  Seaweed isn’t traditionally an endearing gift.   I’m thinking maybe something was lost in translation and it was a piece of coral … In any event, lace-making took off. 

Fishermen’s wives would sit outside their homes making lace while their husbands were at sea.  The 16^th century saw this industry peak as the Doge’s wife established a workshop of 130 women to create lace pieces.  The Burano lace found its way throughout Italy, and into France via Catherine DeMedici.  Louis the XIV even wore an elaborate Burano lace collar for his coronation.  Like every other art form in Italy, there was infighting, corruption and heavily guarded secrecy – where would the fun be, otherwise -- behind the techniques used to make the famous “punta in aria” (stitch in the air) lace.  Eventually a school was opened, and some of the secrets shared.  It’s since closed and the building houses the Lace Museum today.  The tradition of lace-making continues and you can purchase beautiful garments, linens, and other textiles featuring the delicate work.  As always – be careful.  The real stuff is expensive!!  If the price is low, the lace is probably from China.

It’s a lovely way to pass an afternoon … strolling through cobbled streets surrounded by brightly colored houses and shops, and ducking into a few to see the beautiful creations.  Some are as multi-hued as the homes.  But we preferred the traditional whites and ecrus – and real study in contrast to the neighborhood around us.

Quiet, wonderful dining with the locals is a great way to end a relaxed day.  Most of the restaurants offer some open-air seating and the food is stunningly simple, featuring the freshest in seafood offerings paired with pasta and risotto.  Gelato on the way back to the vaporetto provides the sweetest ending to a perfect, off-beat day.  Savor the moment as in a short spray of sea you’ll be back to the bustle of Venice.  But the colors and tastes of Burano will linger long!

Come visit our online store at Direct From Venice, and enjoy our beautiful offerings and one of a kind pieces available in our Private Collection.

Shopping in Venice – It’s all about color!

By:  Paula Dupont

         

 It’s only right that the souvenirs of Venice reflect the city itself:  a sparkling embrace that takes you from the depths of blues in its busy waters to the shimmers of gold on its coffered ceilings – and to every hue in-between.

If you can tear yourself away from the magnificent architecture steeped in history, step away from the cafes and gelaterias, and instead roam the nooks and crannies along the canals that criss-cross the island you’ll see that Venice offers some unique treasures – for yourself or someone special.  The items Venice is known for share one commonality:  they offer a riot of color!

If you think of other popular Italian cities in terms of a color, a clear picture forms for each.  When I think of Milan, I think fashion:  clean palettes, angled lines, black and white haute couture.  Visions of Florence come in rich burgundies and gold – the gilded age.  The Riviera towns of Portofino, Camogli, Cinque Terre, and further down the coast Positano, Amalfi, and Capri evoke images of the turquoise sea, the lemon and olive strung hillsides – lights and brights.

But Venice is about a melded profusion of saturated hues reflected in the two items unique to it:  Murano glass and Venetian carnival masks.  From metallics to gemstones, from cobalt to fiery red, saffron to aubergine, and tranquil rose to kiwi – items seduce you with their stunning array of colors. Sure, you can buy lots of wonderful things in Venice but none captures the essence as well as those two.

First the masks … Venetians began wearing masks during the parties of Carnevale, to celebrate the final days before lent, in the 13^th century.  Their use has ebbed and flowed like the waters around Venice, peaking during the 18^th century when some wore masks up to 6 months of the year to stay incognito and avoid creditors, etc!  Today they’re reserved mostly for the pre-Lenten parties and come in all colors and sizes.  Some masks cover the entire face (and beyond with curling and spiring extensions); others disguise just the eyes.  Most are extremely ornate, starting with a base of papier mache and featuring glitter, gold leafing, and beadwork.  One popular mask includes a long beak-like nose and was the type worn by physicians during the plague because of its supposed protective nature!  And naturally the prices vary widely.  Whether you decide to spend $40 or $4000 – just make sure the mask is authentic, and made in Venice – rather than China!

Murano glass is my pick for the souvenir most reflective (no pun intended) of Venice – and the most usable!  Sure, the masks can be interesting and striking, but for the most part they will be hung up or propped as a home accessory.   A piece of Murano glass jewelry is easily transported home, and can be worn as often as the owner likes.

The Murano glass industry has a long, storied past.  By the 14^th century the glass masters were virtual royalty – toting swords, finding themselves protected from prosecution, and marrying their daughters into prominent Venetian families.  In return, the glass masters were expected to stay on the island of Murano forever.  Not all did!

The glass ranges widely in both technique and color.  Forms of Murano glass include: crystalline glass, enameled glass (smalto), glass with threads of gold (aventurine), multicolored glass(millefiore), and milk glass (lattimo).  These techniques find their way into an enormous range of applications from chandeliers and wall art costing hundreds of thousands of dollars to small jewelry items which can be had for as little as $30.

Like the shapes they take, the glass pieces are also available in a wide range of color to suit every palate.    From crystal clear with millefiore to deep onyx, every hue you can envision is available.  Glass masters use different elements to create the colors in the glass.  For example, they create aquamarine by using copper and cobalt compounds.  Red  forms through the use of a gold solution as a coloring agent. 

You could spend a week reading about the intricate processes of creating Murano glass.  But what matters for most of us in picking a piece is what we like, and what we can afford!   Once you’ve figured that out, the selection is narrower … but still seemingly endless.  And fun.  But again, beware!  The Murano glass industry is highly-regulated and all pieces should come with a certificate of authenticity!

You COULD purchase other souvenirs in Venice – like hand-crafted paper or Burano lace – but none would capture the true, colorful essence of this floating village like its carnival masks and Murano glass do.

Come visit our online store at Direct From Venice, and enjoy our beautiful offerings and one of a kind pieces available in our Private Collection.